Do you have an old switch plate cover, some oil based paint and a needle or a compass? You can give it a try now! On our site we have a couple of examples that are easy to follow. Note: instead of covering the switchplate with ink, you can scribble with a number 2 pencil on the area you want to scribe, so you can see where the indentations are. Once you've made your initial picture, simply wipe off the graphite, then use some oil based paint to fill in the lines. You'll be amazed at how easy it is! You can also draw an illustration on the switchplate, then scribe over the lines.

The Two Masted Ship
by Andrew Perkins
1) Draw the water line completely horizontally across the piece, approximately 1/4 of the way from the bottom. (fig. 1)

 Next, draw the ship itself. Start with the tip of the bow, cutting down and connecting to the waterline. The tip of the bow of the ship will be about 1/2 of the way up the piece. (fig. 2 & 3)

The sails are next. Starting from the top, draw a small horizontal line 1/8th of the way from the top of the piece, starting from a point at the center of the ship, working to the right, ending above the tip of the bow (fig. 4). 

The second sail will be about the width of the ship, approximately 1/4 of the way from the top (fig. 5). 

Next is the third sail, which overhangs the edges of the ship slightly on each side (fig 6).

You can fill in the sides of the ship as illustrated at this point, leaving a small white line which will show where the rigging is attached to the sides of the ship (fig. 7) 

Now comes some of the more difficult part for some, scribing curved lines. Starting at the top sail once again, scribe the sides of the two sails as if it were billowing from the wind, starting each line from the top edge of the sail, and ending at the next sail directly below the starting point (fig 8).

The lowest sail will billow out on both sides (fig. 9)






The underside of the sails should have enough area to show the mast, rigging and other details you will be adding soon (fig. 10)

The first mast starts almost at the top of the piece and slightly to the right, leaving some white area above it. Scribing straight down to the top of the first sail, then continuing below the first sail to the second, then to the third, and finally to the top of the ship (fig. 11).

The second set of sails will be obscured by the first, but the edges will be seen to the left, as well as their bottom edges between the sails. Scribe the tops of the sails first (fig. 12), then the sides and bottoms on the left hand side of the ship (fig. 13)







Care must be taken to ensure that the second mast goes behind both sets of sails. Start parallel to the other mast, and work downward (fig. 14).

Add the flags and upper rigging next. Make the flags small and flowing, pointing to the bow of the ship. There will be two lines from each side of the sail going up to the mast below the flag. Remember to connect any line you make to another line (fig .15).

Each sail will have at least two lines holding it up. You'll need to add the rigging from the side of the ship up (rope ladders) as well. Each line of the rope ladder connects below the white line of the ship, so be sure to add this detail as well. (fig 16 & 17).

Add the last parts to the ship as shown in figure 18 & 19, and you'll be ready to tackle the ocean. The ocean is one of the most tedious yet one of the most important parts to scribe. You will be "breaking the rules" slightly here, as you won't be drawing from one line to another at first, but you will go back and rectify this. Start at the edge of the piece, and draw an elongated upside down "v". From the middle of the first "trough" of the wave, start another upside down "v", varying it slightly, letting the crest touch the first part of the last trough. repeat this procedure until you've filled the water with waves (fig. 20).












Once this is done, go back over this area, filling in areas near the ship to create a shadow effect, leaving other areas as white caps. This takes practice and patience to achieve realism. Using a lighter touch (scribing just hard enough to scrape away the black ink and a little bit of the ivory), you can add shading to the lower parts of the sail. Add a couple of seagulls in the air to balance it out, or just leave it as is (fig. 21 and 22).

All of the scrimming is now complete.
 
Inking your Scrimshaw
 First option: The Q-tip method:
1) Dip a Q-tip into the ink about half way - don't soak the Q-tip!
2) Holding the Q-tip vertically with the ink side pointing down, "dab" the ivory lightly with the ink. This will require a light touch, and you only wish to touch the piece and lift straight up.
3) Continue until all the scribed area has been covered and let dry. I know - you want to see it nowwwww, but LET IT DRY! Ok.
Once it's dry, get a dry cloth and wipe the ivory from the center out. Once the ink is wiped off, rub it harder wherever you see there is a build up of ink (usually around the ship's bow). There may be bits around the mast that have some residual ink built up.
This is where you'll gently but firmly rub with a cloth covered fingernail. Rub up and down - not across - enough to lift any stubborn build up. If you find that none of the ink is coming up, get a piece of corrugated cardboard and fold it in half, then in half again. Using the pointed edge where it's folded over itself twice (on the crease), rub the ink away from the polished ivory. You'll have to rub hard, but the ink in the crevices should remain.
Looking over the piece you will see where your scrimming was inconsistent by the fainter lines. As you continue to practice scrimshaw, your lines will become more consistent, and you'll be able to shade more effectively.
Slight variations are a trademark of handmade work – without these variations it would look as if it were done by a machine. You can coat the finished piece with any spray fixative or clear varnish to keep it's luster or let it age naturally. Do several pieces over a week's time, and notice where you're improving, as well as where you need improvement. Most of all, have fun with it! This is an art few people practice and can be extremely relaxing and engaging.

Scrimshaw is a great craft for children and adults, in your home, during rainy days, or if you find yourself with a lot of idle time searching for leviathan on the deep blue sea!

Need more information? Look at the many resources available on our Books page! Ready to try your hand on some ancient mammoth ivory? Come to our Sales page! Or you can read or listen to some of the many scrimshanders we've interviewed!