Category: FYI

Scrimshaw Knives

Scrimshaw Pocket Knife

 A small knife is handy for opening letters and packages, though it’s not what you want to be carrying when flying. See https://traveltips.usatoday.com/knife-carrying-restrictions-aircraft-110179.html for a light article on this subject. They can be a cherished memento as well, passed down from parent to child, or as a gift for the wedding party participants.  A scrimshawed pocket knife is a gift that has thought and effort put into it.

 Knife handles come with their challenges, from rounded edges to the shape of the handle to fitting the subject so it doesn’t look like it’s been stuffed into the shape, as well as the pins or bolts that hold the ivory or bone to the blade.

 Cost is also a factor, with knife prices ranging from about $10.00 into the hundreds or more. A beginning scrimshander would want to keep the costs low, and unless you’re also looking to become a knife crafter, you’ll want something that has the scales already made and attached.  If you have the tools, you can create your own scales and attach them to blades that have them bolted on or epoxy them on.

 Making a “knife mask” in GIMP

  1. Take a picture of your knife
  2. Add black background with the paint bucket
  3. Remove the scale (make it transparent using the wand selector then clicking “delete)
  4. Add your design on a new layer, then lower that layer (Layer menu -> Stack -> Lower Layer)

From here, you can scale your subject layer to get a better idea if it works, or if it doesn’t.  If you make your “knife mask” the same size as your knife, you can print out the picture, cut out the scale and tape it onto your knife scale and use the “Whaleman’s Technique” (piercing the picture with your stippling tool to make stipples on the scale material underneath). In this picture, the skull is a full head on shot, but the left part of the skull is “masked”. The layer with the skull is just below the knife layer.

Care of the whole knife – masking off the area

Once you have your knife, you’ll want to use masking tape to cover any part of the knife you don’t want to get scratched, and in the case of fixed blade knives, you’ll want to protect the blade (and you) from the edge.  Using a folded piece of cardboard can help here, placing the edge into the fold, then securing the cardboard to the knife so it doesn’t slip out. Any metal should be covered with tape as well so it doesn’t get scuffed, dinged or marred while you’re working.

Holding the knife while scrimshawing

Mortite” caulking worked into a shallow lump can work well if you use low power magnification, adhering it to your work surface. Adhering it to a small board or cardboard base will allow you to move it around easier.  Only remove the masking tape once you’ve finished inking and sealing the design with archival wax.

Inexpensive knives

Amazon has a number of knives I’m hoping to work on this summer, mostly small ones.  My favorite is the “sunfish” design, but they’re notoriously out of stock or are collectors items on eBay – a bit out of my hobby wallet at this point.

As a gift for yourself or someone interested in learning scrimshaw, here’s an inexpensive kit featuring a rough rider double bladed knife and all of the tools you’ll need. I’d recommend a sharpening stone to hone the point as well: a sharp point pn your scribe makes a big difference in stippling as well as incising lines. A 000 paintbrush (available in most art and department stores) is also helpful, especially if you’re going to add more colors. Available as a kit on Amazon. Read further, as you may wish to get a lockback knife instead…



The Boker is my second favorite knife, though more expensive. There’s ample room behind their insignia to scribe a ship, and a lighthouse would look nice here, too.
Sporting a lockback, this one is good if you’re prone to mishandling knives as I was in my youth. My trusty knife didn’t have a lockback, and I was real good at sharpening, as I found out when the blade folded over my fingers while I was trying to drill a hole in a piece of wood. Another lesson I learned was use the right tool for the right job. Fortunately I kept my fingers. Unfortunately that was the last time I saw that knife after my Mom bandaged me up.


Pocket Knife Camel Bone 6.5” Damascus Steelhttps://amzn.to/2FZpcTQ

Make your own knife scale for these:

You can cut your own knife scale out of bone, paper micarta, ivory alternative (or mammoth ivory, if it’s legal in your state). Some of the kits have pieces you can trace and cut with a scroll saw or keyhole saw, or you can cut a paper that fits and transfer this onto the material.  For the holes, be sure to leave enough material for the head to hold it onto the knife itself – the bolts have a slightly wider head than their bodies, or laminate a contrasting wood, horn or durable plastic to the underside of your scale.  Here are a few examples:

Only 2-⅞” blade, bone scale would be about 1″:

Starim Mini –

Eafengrow EF17 Folding Pocket Knife –

Kit Knives

Rough Rider Custom Shop Small Lockback Knife Kit –

FLX25 Frame Lock Folding Knife – DIY Parts Kit –

There are fixed blade knives as well, they can be found with handles attached:

Wild Turkey Camel Bone –

Elk Ridge Fixed Blade Bone Handle –

Or as kits, where you just have the blade itself (and some come with the bolts, too):

Szco Swept Blade –

ColdLand Hand Forged Damascus –

Katsura Santoku Knife Kit

What ever style you decide to create, practice first, take it slow, and enjoy the process. Whether it’s a knife you carry or a knife you gift, it will be a treasure to the owner.

Mammoth Bones Do the Happy Dance in Las Vegas

Mammoth Bones Do the Happy Dance in Las Vegas

Mammoth Bones dancing on stageSenate bill SB194 has passed in Nevada, making it illegal to sell, possess with the intention to sell mammoth ivory, among parts of other currently living creatures.  The bill goes into effect January 1, 2018. You can see a copy of the bill at:
https://www.leg.state.nv.us/App/NELIS/REL/79th2017/Bill/5060/Overview

This brings the number of states making it illegal to sell mammoth ivory to five.  More may be on the way, since it is so easy to include a six letter word lumped in with living endangered species that people either gloss over it or, due to “Manny the moody mammoth” being so near and dear to people’s hearts, they believe they still roam the planet.  

 

Riviera Casino postcard - closed in 2015The mammoth review will be showing at the Riviera Hotel and Casino after all threats of extinct animal poachers have been put to rest in early 2018. Wilma Flinstone will also be serving bronto-burgers…

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riviera_(hotel_and_casino)

Posted in FYI

Deer Antler Scrimshaw – Excerpt from the Scrimshaw Newsletter 2016-1-23

Deer Antler Scrimshaw

Antler from deer, moose, caribou and other creatures have been used for scrimshaw, knife handles and more throughout history. Back when resources were scarce, there were only two of the three R’s: Reuse and Recycle – reduce was not an option.

Antler description

Woman and Owl on Antlet
Antler Example – Moosup Valley Designs

Antlers (in the deer family) are extensions of the animal’s skull that are grown annually. They are true bone, being fed by the animal’s blood and covered by “velvet”: a skin-like covering.  With the exception of reindeer and a few other species, only males produce horns (what is the feminine version of Rudolf, anyway?).  Shed antler are a favorite of raccoons and other woodland creatures as a source of calcium.  Due to the fact that there were capillaries within the antler, small voids remain on the surface of the antler and the material should be sealed either with cyanoacrylate (super glue) or wax after polishing to minimize staining (you find this with most bone as well). We’re looking into other ways of sealing but haven’t had the time to experiment with them yet.

Antler resources

AntlerMan – (amazon) http://amzn.to/1JOshhM

Etsy – http://etsy.me/1ML6l7c

eBay – http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELK-TINE-TIPS-TINES-TIP-ANTLER-ANTLERS-CRAFT-/290770316852?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=ISyyL2

Sanding Antler:

Antler handle with scrimshaw on knife
Example – Black Creek Knives

Using proper dust protection (eye protection and dust mask along with dust remediation), cut the antler to the shape and size you intend to scrimshaw.  Note: some antler will have a nice outer color, but the inside may be darkened due to the age of the antler. The one I’m working with was from a roadkill of a one year old, and I believe the blood hadn’t entirely left the antler at the time of its demise. [cross-section]

Attempting to create a small “window” to scrimshaw on, I sanded down into the darker area of the antler, making that area look stained. Carefully and lightly sanding only until smooth I was able to work an area further up the antler that should work for a smaller scrimshaw.  I sanded the area progressively from 240 grit to 3200 creating a mirror like finish using micromesh pads after the wet/dry sandpaper (available in most hardware stores, automotive stores).  Cutting off the previous window, it’s now time to figure out what to scrimshaw.

I settled on a ship since time was short and it was easy to draw free hand (one of the advantages of doing a lot of ships over the years).

Scrimshaw of a ship on an antler tip
Finished scrimshaw on antler tip

Overall, it came out surprisingly well.  Cross-sections tend to stain due to the aforementioned capillaries.  If you get a whole antler with the “buttons” (the base of the antler), they can be made into many decorative items. Necklaces can be made from sections of the antler, toggles from either the tips or the cross-sections for coats, knife scales if the antler is thick enough and stand-alone scrimshaws from larger pieces, including moose antler if you’re lucky enough to get some.

 

Brighten up “Reverse Scrimshaw” With This Technique

Lion "Reverse Scrimshaw" on water buffalo hornAfter doing several “reverse scrimshaws” – scrimshaw on a dark material where the stipples/incisions are filled with a white pigment, I found they looked kind of dull.  From experiments a couple of years ago using “Pearl-Ex”, I knew mixing it into the pigment only made a slight difference.

This time, I coated the surface with an acrylic paint (oil paint should work the same), then wiped it off while it was still wet.  With a Q-Tip, I lightly brushed some of the Pearl-Ex (micropearl – smallest white particles I was able to find) onto the surface then wiped it off so the particles would adhere to the wet paint in the stipples while the rest would wipe away.  It made a big difference no matter what angle you hold the piece now. Available at many local art supply stores and at Amazon.com (Pearl-Ex Micropearl)